Most people see Antananarivo through a car window, on their way to somewhere else. I understand why: the traffic is heavy, the city is built on hills and steps, and the famous places are out in the countryside. But if you give Tana one good day, it pays you back.
I often put it at the start of a trip, because it is easier to understand the rest of the island once you have met the kings who ruled the highlands. Here is how I would spend one day, and where I would go if you have another.
The Rova Manjakamiadana
A palace on the hill
The Rova is the old royal compound on the highest hill of the city. From here the Merina kings and queens ruled the highlands, and the Manjakamiadana palace was the heart of it. It was built around 1839 for Queen Ranavalona I, first in wood, and in the 1860s it was wrapped in stone. The two towers you see in the photo above come from that stone shell.
On the night of 6 November 1995, a fire destroyed much of the Rova. It was a shock for the whole country, and for nearly three decades the buildings stood damaged. After a long restoration, the site reopened to the public in June 2023.
What you see
You walk through the grounds and visit the restored palaces, among them Manjakamiadana, Besakana and Mahitsielafanjaka. Take your time on the terraces too. The view of the city, its red roofs and the hills beyond is one of the best in Antananarivo.
This is the view over the gardens and the lower town from the hill. I like to stand here for a few minutes and let people take it in before we say anything.
That is also why I bring people early in the morning. It is cooler, the light is better and the stones are quiet. Here a traveller listens to the story of the kings in front of the old stone buildings. The history is complicated, and it is much easier to follow when someone tells it standing next to the walls.
Practical notes
- Plan one and a half to two hours.
- Wear comfortable shoes. There are steps and uneven stones.
- Check the opening hours and the current entry fee before you go.
- Go in the morning if you can.
One day in Antananarivo
Here is how I would organise a day, with the Rova as the starting point. Don't try to do everything. Days in Tana feel longer than they are, because getting from one place to another takes time, and the best moments tend to be the ones where you stop and watch the street.
Morning: the Rova and the Haute-Ville
Start at the Rova, then walk down through the Haute-Ville, the old upper town with its stone houses and steep lanes. Stop for lunch in one of the small restaurants on the way. I know a few good ones.
This is a lunch with travellers at one of the places I like, a small restaurant in the old town. Nobody is in a hurry at the table, and it is often where the best questions about Madagascar come up.
The old prime minister's palace, Andafiavaratra, is also up here. Check whether it is open on the day you go, as opening times change. Even from the outside, it tells you a lot about how powerful the court was in the nineteenth century.
Afternoon: markets and crafts
In the lower town, Analakely is the busy heart of the city, with stalls of fabric, fruit and everyday life. For crafts, I prefer the Andravoahangy market. You will find raffia baskets, hats, wooden toys and painted pictures of baobabs.
This is one of the craft shops where I stop. Take your time, ask for the price, and don't be afraid to bargain with a smile.
Early evening: Lake Anosy
If you still have energy, finish by the lake. In October and November the jacaranda trees are in bloom and a part of the city turns purple.
If you have a second day
Antananarivo is a good base for day trips, and each of these is easy to combine with a trip on the RN7 or the RN2.
Ambohimanga, the blue hill
About 25 km north of the city, Ambohimanga is a royal hill and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old gates, the sacred places and the view over the countryside make it the most atmospheric spot near Tana.
Lemurs' Park
A private park about 20 km outside the city, where lemurs live free among the trees. It is easy to reach, good with children, and a nice first meeting with lemurs before Andasibe.
Lake Mantasoa
About 60 km east of the city, a lake surrounded by hills and pine forest. It is calm and cool, and good for a picnic and a slow walk.
Practical tips
- Traffic: Tana is congested. Avoid the morning and late-afternoon rush hours, and allow twice the time you expect.
- Shoes: the city is built on hills, with many steps.
- Valuables: keep your phone and bag close in crowded markets, and leave nothing visible in the car.
- Weather: dry months from April to October are the easiest. Nights in the highlands are cold from June to August, so bring a layer.
- Language: most people speak Malagasy and French. A guide helps a lot in the markets, and makes bargaining more fun.
Quick answers
How long do I need at the Rova?
About two hours, including the terraces.
Is one day enough in Antananarivo?
One day is enough to see the main sights. Two days let you enjoy them and add a day trip.
Should I visit Tana at the start or the end of my trip?
Either works. I prefer the start: you meet the kings, then you see their country. But a calm day in the city at the end of a long road trip is a good way to finish too.
If you would like a guide for Tana and the highlands, have a look at my guiding services. And if you are planning the rest of your trip, read about the road to Isalo or a walk in the forest.
